Do you have a tree care question?
Ask the arborist!

It would best to have a qualified tree company take a look at what the situation is. Click the Choose a Pro button on the left side of this page foran onsite exam of your tree.

Will my mango tree fruit again?

I have a mango tree that was blown over in a hurricane.  A sprout has grown for about two years but not producing fruit.  How can I get it to begin producing again?

suggestion:

Your “sprout” has undergone a tremendous amount of stress as it is a sign of the tree trying to regenerate itself. A healthy mango tree will start producing fruit in about five years, but your little tree is struggling to survive. It might take a little longer for it to recover and begin fruiting again. Cut back any other suckers that come from the parent tree (stump) so as to eliminate competition from other suckers.

Put a layer (3”) of organic compost/mulch around the tree (don’t pile it against the stem), and sprinkle about 4 oz of slow release fertilizer (12-12-12 or something similar) into the compost. You will want to do this right about this time of year.

Give it adequate amount of water (but don’t flood it), and hope that no other weather events disturb it as it tries to regain a foot hold.

Can I install lighting in trees?

I work for a landscape company, based just outside of Philadelphia. The company is planning to install lights to showcase some of its work. Many of the lights that we plan on installing will be directly attached to a variety of trees: oak, beech, chestnut, and maples to name a few. My concern and that of my employer is that by attaching the wires to the trees using conventional methods (staples or nails) we will adversely affect the health of our trees. My question is really three parts. First, is there another, more green friendly method to accomplish our task? Second, if traditional methods are our only options, should we be concerned at all; will the damage be minimal?

suggestion

There is no simple answer to your question. Basically, anytime you staple, nail, cut or drill into the living tissue of a tree, you do damage to it. Now whether or not the tree will respond negatively to the injury is up to a lot of different factors. Things to consider are: the overall health of the tree, the tree species (some species are more susceptible to infections from wounding than others), whether or not there are endemic diseases that could enter the wound sites, the size of the limbs you are placing the fasteners to, the growth rate of the trees, etc.

If you decide to use invasive fasteners on the trees, you will need to watch the attachment sites for signs of infections (copious sap or resin, cankers or sunken areas), and make certain the tree does’t try to grow over the attachments and wires. This will cause weak spots in the wood over time, and could lead to branch or trunk failure down the road.

What other methods of fasteners could be suitable? Wrapping or tying them on with the intent to adjust them once a year with tree growth? I don’t have the answer to that one, but overall whatever method of attachment you use, you might want to consider a yearly maintenance program to assure adjustment for tree growth, and to watch for signs of infection.

Do I need to fertilize my arborvitae?

suggestion:

The need for fertilization of a conifer is more of a condition of the growing site than the age of the trees. If they sit in well aerated, healthy soil and receive adequate amounts of water (for that particular site) then you may not need to fertilize on a regular basis. They way to know if you have healthy soil around your trees is to take a sample of it in to your county extension office. The office will have recommendations on how to prepare a soil sample for their lab.

What's wrong with my Jacaranda tree?

I Live in Gilbert AZ and I have a jacaranda that was planted about 5 months ago in August. The tree was green and healthy but now looks like it is not doing so well? The leaves are turning yellow and brown and are starting to fall off. Is this normal? Am I over watering the tree by watering twice a day for 30 min at 2 GPH?

suggestion:

I would say that yes, you are providing too much water for your tree. Jacarandas need moderate watering (once per week for about 20 minutes) and well drained soil.

Hopefully, you didn't plant it too deep. See if the root flare is exposed. That is the part of the tree where the trunk flares out to the roots. That part needs to be above ground.

Can we build a house between our two trees?

I am currently a senior at my high school. Another student in the school and I are working on a senior project that involves designing a house for a teacher at our school. In one of our meetings she described the basic landscape of the area she wants the house built on and mentions two large trees that I believe are oak. She said that she wanted an L-shaped house that would sit between these two trees. My question is concerning the distance between the house and these trees. By excavating for the foundation of the house it may damage the root system for these trees. What is your recommendation on how far away the house should be from these trees? Thank you for your time.

suggestion:

Any time there is any ground-disturbing activity within the drip line of a mature tree, the tree will respond unfavorably. If the trees are considered to be a large value of the property, there should be some method of tree protection placed around the drip line (if possible). There are many forms of tree protection, but the main idea is to keep heavy equipment off the root zone so as not to compact or damage the tree roots. Also, a barrier of sorts will prevent vehicles or equipment from running into the tree and causing trunk damage.

Many times, though, in planning a new structure, tree protection takes up more room than is feasible to allow for construction around the tree. A compromise of sorts can be reached for tree protection, but still may cause long term damage to the tree.

I would be happy to help you with this project as much as I am able to. You have a fairly complicated situation, and if long term preservation of the trees is important then please consider my assistance. I would hate to see those beautiful trees get damaged in the process of building around them. Write back to Ask The Arborist for more information.

Citrus tree trouble

Our satsuma and orange trees (two trees each) were transplanted to our current yard eight years ago.  Up until three years ago, they produced abundant and delicious fruit.  Can you tell me why they aren't producing now?

We live in Florida and have oak trees that shade part of the yard.  Also, a year ago we started using a lawn service to fungicide/herbicide the yard.

suggestion:

There could be many reasons why your citrus trees are no longer producing. It could be that the application the lawn service is putting down is affecting the trees. Also, if your area has experienced drought during the last couple of years, it may be possible that the trees are showing drought stress symptoms.

I think you may need a professional tree care company to come out and take a good look. Look on this website under Find a Professional for the names of some qualified tree experts in your area. Many reputable tree care companies may not charge to take a look to see what is wrong.

Madagascar dragon tree spot

I work for an interior plantscape company. We have several dracaena arboreas in a shopping mall. They have been there for about 6 months. They are starting to have black pin dots, with brown circles around it. All of the trees are showing signs of this. Can you tell me why this is happening?

suggestion:

It is possible the Dracaena has spider mites. Do you notice small webbing at the leaf bases? If so, you can treat with this remedy: combine one tablespoon of dishwashing detergent and one cup of vegetable oil and mix. Add this mixture to one cup of water in a handheld spray bottle and shake well. Spray the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves.

If the damage on the trees doesn’t look like spider mite damage, then a number of things could be going on. Poor air circulation, too much or not enough water, high humidity, fungal diseases or bacteria, or even poor growing conditions.

You might find the best answer at your county extension office. Take a sample of the affected tree leaves to your extension office, and they will be able to tell you better what is happening and what to do.

When can I remove my sweetgum tree?

What time of year do gum balls grow on gum trees...here in S.E. Missouri? I wish to have my trees cut down when no gum balls are on it.

It’s not so much a question of when do the gum balls grow on a sweetgum tree as it is when is there NOT something on the tree that will fall off? The seed balls tend to open and disperse their contents in the fall, but will often stay on the tree through the winter.

The best time to remove a sweetgum tree with the least amount of cleanup would be in the middle of winter, or when the tree is dormant. Some of the dried seed pods may still fall off during removal, but there might be fewer of them in the winter than if you removed the trees any other time of the year.

Quaking aspens have cracks

We live in southern Maine and have a small stand of Quaking Aspen that we adore. They seem to be healthy but have long cracks in the bark. Is this normal, or a sign of trouble? If they’re in trouble, is there some treatment we can do to protect them?

Suggestion:

Do the cracks seem to spiral around the tree? If so, it could be the canker Cryptosphaeria populina. It will need to be treated with a fungicide in the spring. Check this website for a list of professional tree companies in your area who may offer this service. Be sure to get at least three different quotes, and ask them for proof of insurance.

If the cracks don’t circle the stem, they may only be frost cracks, and there is not much you can do. The cracks most likely won’t kill the trees, but they can cause weakend branch growth. Keep and eye on them, and contact one of the professionals if you need someone to take a close up look.

Blue spruce turning brown

I planted blue spruce early spring, I live in northeast Montana and some of the top needles are turning brown and falling off, what do I need to do before freeze?

suggestion:

One of the reasons a tree will brown out from the top down is if it has been planted too deep. Check to see if the top of the root flare (where the trunk flares out to meet the roots) is visible above ground. If it is not, then give it a good long soak with the hose before everything freezes (unless its already freezing).

If everything is already freezing, protect the tree from the winter winds by lightly wrapping it in burlap or other protective material until late winter. When the ground thaws just before spring, dig it back up and reset it higher in the ground so the top of the rootball is slightly above grade.

If the tree is planted at the right depth, follow the suggestion above to either water or wrap the tree to protect it. Then make certain it gets enough water throughout the growing season next year so it can come back to full health. Next year will be a "wait and see" year before you should take any more actions.

How can I protect my deck trees through the winter?

I have a 3.5-foot capitata evergreen tree, a 4.5-foot blue maid holly, and two smaller plants (a plumbago and euonymus fortunei) that I'd like to overwinter on our Chicago deck. Do you have any suggestions on keeping the roots from freezing (how to protect the pots, mulching, etc.).

Suggestion:

I think the holly will be o.k. on the deck if you perhaps keep it out of direct wind. The euonymus might fare through the winter okay, as well, but you may consider cutting it back a bit right about now so it doesn’t have as many leaves to try to protect during the winter. Or you could lightly wrap sturdy clear plastic sheeting around the foliage (keep it loose enough for air circulation, but tight enough to protect from the wind). You might be able to wait until freezing weather to wrap the euonymus.
 
The plumbago is going to be the most high maintenance. If you can, bring it inside in a dark cool place (basement?) so it can be protected during its dormancy inside. Or you can bring it inside in a warm and sunny place as a houseplant (depends on how big it is). I think you will have a difficult time protecting it on your deck. If you absolutely have no choice but to leave it outside, wrap the container it is in with a good insulating material (perhaps even a foam pad for camping), and cover the top of the rootball with up to 4” of mulch. Wrap the foliage in clear plastic sheeting or burlap and keep the whole plant protected from the wind and direct sunlight.
 
There are several different trees with the common name of capitata. Is yours a palm tree or dogwood? If it is a palm, it might do okay, with some plastic sheeting wrapped loosely around it. Again, keep it out of the wind. If it is a dogwood, wrap the foliage with the plastic, keep it out of direct sun and wind.

What's wrong with my quaking aspen tree?

Hi, we live in Bennett, Colorado (flat lands) and trees are kind of scarce here but we have a quaking aspen tree that the leaves have dried up and there is a white scaly substance on the bark. What is that and what can we do if anything to save the tree?

suggestion:

The white scaly stuff might just be a harmless adelgid (insect) that could easily be washed off with a hose.

The sudden leaf change reflects a little of what might be going on with the temperatures out there. Going from hot and dry to sudden rain could cause a type of leaf spot to flare up (leaf disease).

When the leaves fall from the tree rake them up and put them in your burn pile. Don’t spread them around the other plants or it will spread the fungus.

Scrape a little bark off the tree to see if you get live tissue under the bark, or if the wood is brown and dead. If there is live tissue, there is a little hope for next year’s growth. Water around the dripline (out from the trunk to where the branches end) from now until all the leaves fall.

If you get live tissue, you can call a professional tree care company in your area to treat the tree with a fungicide next spring, but it will take a lot of TLC for the tree to come back to full health. You can find professional companies on our website www.tcia.org or www.TreeCareTips.org.

If you scratch down the bark and you get dead wood, then it is time to think about replacing that tree.

I've been told I have a bacterial canker on my cherry tree.
What should I do?

Hello. Thank you for your inquiry about your cherry tree. Cherry bacterial canker is extremely difficult to control, but with some extended effort, it can be done. Before you spray anything on it, the best time for spraying will be in October. Prune out all of the infected twigs and prune off or out all visible cankerous areas and destroy the debris carefully.

This summer, small cankers may be cut out using the following method. Cut away bark above and around the edges of the infected area. Use sharp tools, and leave wound margins smooth and neat. Your best efforts at pruning out cankerous branches can be useless unless you carefully apply alcohol to your pruning sheers to sterilize them with each cut. Sterilize all pruning tools between cuts with alcohol or 10% Clorox (bleach) solution.

Focus on pruning first, then supplement with chemical control. Once fall hits your region you can spray the cherry tree with a basic copper containing fungicide which will hopefully help prevent additional infection. Spray first in October before fall rains, and again in early January. Thorough coverage is needed, and you’ll have to repeat this process for a few years until the canker is gone.

Make this easy on yourself by getting a qualified tree company involved. They would have the expertise and equipment needed for this type of work. Find a qualified tree company on our website, TreeCareTips.org or the Tree Care Industry Association web site, www.tcia.org. If the state you're in has restrictions on the products recomended, one of our member companies can help you with alternatives.

Can I transplant my spruce tree?

I've created a real problem -- I let a beautiful Blue Spruce volunteer grow in one of my front flower beds. It's now around nine feet tall, and 2-3/4 inches in diameter at the base of the trunk. It's in a place where it's fed often and gets lots of water.

But it's also growing right under my power line and I am wondering if I can move it without killing it. What sort of a root system do young Blue Spruce have in well-watered locales? How far down do you think I would have to dig to get the tap root out safely?

Or do you think I've just screwed up entirely and will have to kill the tree now?   Please let me know--

Suggestion:

Thanks for your inquiry. I don’t think you are too late to take care of the “problem” you’ve created. Here is a step-by-step procedure list that you can try if you want to successfully (cross your fingers) transplant the tree.

1. Hurry up and wait. You will want to continue to water this tree through the summer in preparation for its move in the fall. A layer (2 – 4”) of compost or mulch over the root zone (out to the dripline, if possible) would certainly help as well.
2. If the new spot is in the same yard, you should be o.k., soil-wise. If you aren’t certain if you’re transplanting into the same soil type, then take a soil sample to your county extension office. They can tell you how to amend (add stuff) your soil for the spruce transplant, if needed.
3. Take into consideration also how much sun/water the new site will have. If your tree is doing well where it is, the new site should be very similar to the current site.
4. Late in the fall (before the ground freezes), use a sharp shovel (or call a professional tree company) and cleanly sever the roots around the tree. You need to go out from the tree as close to the dripline (ends of branches) as possible. This will make a very heavy rootball (thus the professional tree movers), but a spruce will need as many roots as possible to thrive in the new site.
5. Find a qualified tree care company on the main page of this website, TreeCareTips.org, or the Tree Care Industry Association web site, www.tcia.org. Let me know if you want to try to move it yourself. I’ll help you find a good chiropractor in your area. (kidding!)
6.  Have the new hole dug before you dig up the tree. Make the new planting space at least twice the size of the rootball. Set the tree in the hole slightly above ground level. Its root flare (where the roots start to grow out from the trunk) needs to be slightly above grade.
7. Water it, cover the new root space with 2 – 4” of mulch as a winter blanket, and cross your fingers that it likes its new home.

If all of that is too much work, then you can “kill” it, but you have a very valuable landscape tree that just might be worth the effort to move. Definitely do not try to cut it out of the wires. It will wreck the shape value of the tree. Let me know if I have answered your question satisfactorily. Good luck with this project. 

Are my trees falling apart? What can I do to save them?

Just within the past couple of weeks I noticed a crack in one on my front yard trees. I inquired with the folks from Home Depot who said I could save the tree by drilling a 2 inch hole through the truck and inserting a threaded bar. On each end would be a thick washer and bolt which should be tightened enough to bring the split back together.

This sounds crazy...but I thought I'd ask a pro -- will this work?

Any help would be appreciated.

Suggestion:

Thanks for your inquiry. Believe it or not, one of the methods of keeping trees from falling apart is to insert rods for bracing. There is a trick to it, though, and if you aren’t familiar with arboriculture and how trees respond to having holes drilled in them, you’d benefit greatly from a professional tree company performing the work.

Your trees are cracking because they need to be thinned out. This is also something the professional company can do for you without risking further the health of the tree. You didn’t mention what part of the country you are in, but if you get summer storms with high winds, I would recommend that you call a tree company before a high wind event hits your area.

Our Web site, www.tcia.org,  will give you a zip code search of professional tree care companies in your area to select from. Get three different estimates, and have the companies show you their insurance policies. Do not hire an inexperienced “tree guy” to do this work because he is cheap. You obviously value these trees so invest just a small amount of professional time into these beautiful assets.

Should I have the Virginia Creeper removed from my tree?

I live in Baltimore, MD, and have a 60+ year old oak tree with very thick virginia creeper that is well established. The tree is probably 80 feet tall, and the creeper is probably 40 feet up or higher. Some larger branches seem to be dying off, but not sure if that's natural or a result of the creeper.

So, I have a tree company (company name edited) who is not a member of your association, says they can cut the creeper off the tree for about $400, and will prune in accordance with Class III standards.

I am wondering if 1) the creeper will come back 2) will it damage the tree to cut it off 3) will the creeper damage the tree by staying and 4) is $1200 a good price to prune and rid the tree of creeper?

Suggestion:

Thanks for your inquiry. The tree company should be able to pull the creeper off the tree without damage to the tree. It is likely that the vine will come back, but if you are vigilant you can keep it from growing back into the tree. You definitely need to get out there and pull it off every couple of months, though. Eventually, it should go away if you keep pulling it out.

I can't say without looking at the tree whether or not the tree company is giving you a fair price. If you feel it is high, then by all means get a second and third opinion. Check our Web site for qualified tree care professionals in your area: Treecaretips.org or tcia.org.

Ask (tree company name edited) to write out a proposal of what exactly it is they are planning to do. The use of class types in arboriculture (tree care) is outdated, so at least get a written proposal. If not, get two other quotes to make certain you will be provided the best use of tree care industry standards for your situation.

Click here to ask the arborist a tree care question.